Home
> Resources
> Fleck 5600 Econominder Installation
Example/Guide
Fleck
5600 Water Softener Setup & Installation
This example is provided as informational only and in no way depicts
every installation situation you may encounter. WaterValue.com
believes strongly that a licensed plumber or water treatment specialist
should install your water treatment equipment. But for the "do-it-yourselfer"
or if you are simply curious as to what is involved, this section
will provide a considerable amount of information. This article
is not intended to replace the Fleck Service Manual or Owner's
Manual.
Section
1. Electrical Requirements The
Fleck 5600 Econominder (metered / on-demand) water softener control
valve is configured for a grounded 120 volt electrical outlet.
Be sure you have access to an outlet before choosing the location
of your softener. The Fleck 5600 comes with a 5-foot cord. An
extension cord may be used as specified in the Fleck
5600 Service Manual.
Section
2. Location Your
water softener's location should take into consideration factors
such as available space, main water line, a relatively close drain
facility and environment. For example, you may want the softener
to treat all of the water in your home, but not water used for
irrigation outdoors. A plumbing loop may need to be configured
for this purpose. Also, water softeners contain water and are
subject to freezing which would permanently damage your controller.
Finally, you will occasionally be adding salt or potassium chloride
to the softener's brine tank. Accessability is important.
Section
3. "Some Assembly Required" Because
most of our residential systems ship via UPS Ground service, the
media
tank will most likely be empty except for a tube running up
and down the center of the tank called a riser or turbulator.
The resin
media will arrive in a separate box or boxes depending on
the size of your system. The media will have to be added to the
media tank. As illustrated below, (Fig 1)the
riser or optional turbulator will be inside the media tank and
seated in a depression at the bottom of the tank. It will have
a plastic plug inserted into it to prevent the resin media from
getting inside the tube, but if the plug is missing, simply cover
it with a piece of tape.
Add
all of the media included with your shipment (Fig 2).
If you also received a bag of washed gravel, add the gravel to
the tank first then pour the resin media on top of it. A gravel
bed is not necessary with most residential water softeners.
|
|
Fig
1. The riser (distributor) remains inside the tank
seated in a "dimple" at the bottom. The riser is
capped to prevent resin beads from getting inside. |
Fig
2. The cation resin will not always spill down inside
the tank and may need to be swept inside. |
A
turbulator
(Fig 4) is an option available to you in place
of a standard riser (Fig 3). If your water contains
high amounts of iron/manganese and you are using iron pre-filtration,
or if your water does not contain iron/manganese, a standard riser
will perform best for you.
|
|
Fig
3. Above is a standard riser distributor. |
Fig
4. Above is a turbulator style distributor and its
illustrated position in a softener tank. |
Section
3. Attach The Control Valve To The Tank. The
Fleck 5600 Econominder may come with a cone-shapped, slotted "top
distributor basket" (Fig 5) which should
be fastened to the bottom of the 5600 control valve. It simply
slips into the four slots in the bottom of the valve and a twist
will secure it in place.
Before
screwing the control valve onto the tank, make certain that the
plastic cap or tape is removed from the top of the distributor
tube in the tank. Failure to remove this tape or cap will result
in no water flow through the system. Also, do not use
plumber's tape or "pipe dope" on the coarse threads
of the control valve or tank. Pipe joint compound will surely
cause leakage.
The
top of the tank should be free of any debris from the resin media
(Fig 6). If even a minute particle resides on
the top lip of the tank or the bottom o-ring on the control valve,
a leak will result.
|
|
Fig
5. Top distributor basket. This attaches to the bottom
of the 5600 and has a hole in the bottom to accept the distributor
tube. |
Fig
6. The top lip of the media tank must be free of
particles and debris for a leak-free fit. Notice that the
cap/tape has been removed from the distributor tube. |
Now
slide the control valve with the top distributor basket over the
distributor tube. When the threads of the control valve make contact
with the top of the tank, you will feel the distributor tube slide
up into place. This tube will be pressed up into the control valve
as you firmly screw the control valve down onto the media tank.
A good, firm hand-tightening will ensure no leaks. Do not use
the control valve's timer assembly for leverage and do not use
tools. A firm grasp with both hands at the base of the valve will
do. It would be wise to have a helper steady the media tank as
you do this.
Section
4. Plumbing, Connections & Fittings. The Fleck 5600
Econominder from Water Value is available for connection to two
standard water pipe sizes; 3/4-inch and 1-inch. You can use either
a standard Noryl bypass valve and yoke (pipe threaded connector)
or choose the optional stainless steel bypass valve (Fig
8). In either case, you should not solder directly to
these bypass valves or connectors. The Noryl bypass valve uses
a yoke with male pipe threads (Fig 7) and the
stainless steel bypass valve is configured with female pipe threads.
All soldering should be performed before screwing water lines
into the bypass valve. The heat from soldering will damage the
internal moving parts of the bypass valves no matter which material
they are made of.
Use
of pipe joint compound or "plumber's tape" is recommended
for these connections to prevent leaks. These are standard water
pipe threads, so fittings and a myriad of adapters are available
for nearly any water pipe situation/requirement from your local
plumbing supply or hardware store. Do not use plumbers tape on
the connection between the Noryl bypass valve and yoke. The yoke
simply presses onto the bypass valve (Fig 9)
and is held in place with stainless steel clips. Once the clips
are in place, tighten the screws (not too tight) so that the clips
will not move and your yoke will be secure (Fig 10).
These clips are the same method used to fasten the bypass valve
(both Noryl and stainless steel) to the 5600 control valve. Do
not screw anything into or on to the bypass valve while it is
connected to the 5600 control valve. This could damage the controller.
|
|
Fig
7. Fleck 5600 Noryl yokes. 3/4-inch standard pipe
thread on the left and 1-inch standard pipe thread on the
right. |
Fig
8. Fleck stainless steel bypass valve. 3/4-inch shown
with 1-inch available. |
|
|
Fig
9. Fleck 5600 Noryl bypass valve. Note the stainless
steel retainer clips for connecting to the yoke and especially
note the flow direction arrows embossed on the valve. Be sure
to connect your water pipes accordingly. |
Fig
10. The stainless steel retainer clips hold the yoke
in place when pressed on to the bypass valve. Do not over
tighten these screws. It is only necessary to seat the clips
into their slots to prevent leaks. |
Shut
off the main water supply to your home or building and relieve
the pipes of pressure. Make the cuts in your water lines that
will best line up with your softener's placement. Use any type
of pipe size or material that will conform to your local plumbing
codes to connect to the in and out ports of the bypass valve.
If using copper water lines, do not solder anywhere near the 5600
or its bypass valve. Solder your pipes and joints and let them
cool before connecting them to the bypass valve.
Great
care should be taken when connecting your water pipes to the 5600
bypass valve. The direction of water flow must match the arrows
on the bypass valves or loss of resin media and clogged water
pipes will likely result. When replacing an old water softener,
keep in mind that the flow direction could be opposite of what
your new softener requires.
Your
Fleck 5600 Econominder comes with a drain line fitting. This fitting
is plastic but attaches to your control valve with standard pipe
threads. Again, this type of connection requires some type of
pipe joint compound or tape to prevent leaks.
Water
Value provides 50-feet of 1/2-inch drain line (Fig 11)
which slips over the hose-barb drain line fitting mentioned above.
This drain line will be run to the nearest drain such as a sump
pump, drain fixture or sewer drain line. An air-gap of at least
1-inch is required to prevent contact with harmful waste water
and possible backup into the softener's control valve. Be sure
to check with your local plumbing code requirements. This drain
line should be secured along its route to the drain. When regenerating,
the 5600 will force water through this line and it will most likely
move around a great deal if not fastened securely. Because there
will be water in this drain line even when not in use, freezing
temperatures could clog it up causing a back-up into your softener's
media tank. The drain line should not be exposed to freezing temperatures.
Care should also be taken to prevent the drain line from becoming
clogged with debris which may also back up the system. Periodic
inspection of the drain line should be made to ensure the free
flow of waste water from the line. We recommend using a hose clamp
to secure the drain line to the hose-barbed fitting (Fig
12) .
|
|
Fig
11. Roll of 1/2-inch ID drain line included with
the 5600 softener. This line connects to the barbed fitting
on the control valve. |
Fig
12. The drain line connected to the Fleck 5600 drain
fitting. Even though this line will not come off after being
inserted on to the fitting, use of a hose clamp is highly
recommended. |
Section
5. Brine Line Connection. The
final connection you will make to the 5600 control valve is the
brine line. This connection uses a brass compression fitting which
slips over the included brine line. Fleck normally inserts the
brass ferrules in each end of the brine line, but they can sometimes
be located inside the compression fittings package. The ferrules
simply slip into each end of the brine line (Fig 13).
The
brine line connection is on the right hand side of the 5600 as
you face the front of the control valve. Simply slide the brass
compression nut over the brine line and then slide the compression
ring over that. Insert the brine line all of the way into the
control valve's brass fitting and tighten down the compression
nut with a wrench (Fig 14).
|
|
Fig
13. The brine line with brass ferrules inserted. |
Fig
14. Slide the compression nut on to the brine line
then the compression ring. Insert the brine line into the
brass fitting on the 5600 and tighten the compression nut. |
Section
6. Brine Tank Setup & Connection. All
brine tanks from Water Value come with a model 2310
safety overflow float assembly which resides inside of the
brine tank's "brine well". The brine well is simply
a 4-inch diameter cylinder which runs up and down the inside of
the brine tank. The cap on the top of the brine well can be removed
by pulling up on it. Inside you will find the 2310 safety overflow
assembly (Fig 15). It is attached to the brine
well with a small black steel hex-nut. Remove this hex-nut but
do not drop it, they are nearly impossible to find once dropped.
Put it in a safe place.
The
2310 safety float assembly will now lift right up out of the brine
well (Fig 16). You will notice a bright pink
tag on the assembly. This tag contains instructions on trimming
the float rod to accomodate your brine tank. Follow the instructions
on this tag (Fig 17). They basically state that
the float rod should be trimmed to 10-inches above the top of
the air-check. Measure the current distance from the air-check,
(Fig 18) remove the float rod
from the assembly by first taking off the top rubber retainer
and sliding the float rod out of the actuator arm. Remove the
second rubber retainer and measure and cut off the length you
need to achieve 10-inches from the bottom of the float cup to
the top of the air-check.
|
|
Fig
15. The yellow arrow points to the 2310 safety overflow
assembly. You will need to remove this from the brine well.
Take care to not lose the hex nut that holds it in place. |
Fig
16. The 2310 saftey overflow assembly. Note the pink
tag and the fact that the float itself is less than 10-inches
from the top of the air-check. This float needs to be shortened. |
|
|
Fig
17. Instructions for trimming the float assembly
rod are on this tag. |
Fig
18. In this particular example, we will need to remove
6-1/2 inches from the float rod to get the 10-inches required
from the top of the air-check to the bottom of the float. |
Now
replace the first rubber retainer ring and re-insert the float
rod back up through the actuator arm. Place the second rubber
retainer on to the top of the float rod. It is important to note
here that you should leave some "play" in between the
two rubber retainers. If the rubber retainers are too close together,
they will restrict the up and down movement of the float rod causing
it to be ineffective in case of a brine tank overflow. One inch
or so between the rubber retainers should be enough (Fig
19).
Place
the float assembly back into the brine well. Attach the black
steel retainer hex-nut to hold it in place. Position the brine
line inlet so that it is facing toward the pre-cut hole in the
side of the brine well and the brine tank. Remove the plastic
compression nut from the float assembly. It will contain two compression
washers, one black and one white (Fig 20). Guide
the brine line through the holes in the brine tank and brine well.
Slide the plastic compression nut on to the brine line. Now slide
the black compression washer onto the brine line with the tapered
end facing the plastic compression nut. Slide the white compression
washer onto the brine line with the wide end facing the black
compression washer. Insert the brine line into the float assembly
and screw the plastic compression nut onto it. Hand tighten and
then use a wrench. Do not over-tighten and crack the nut, but
be sure it's not going to leak either. A vacuum leak here or at
the other end of the brine line on the control valve will cause
many problems.
|
|
Fig
19. The orange arrows indicate the rubber retainers.
The yellow arrow indicates the black steel hex-nut (in a safe
place). |
Fig
20. The brine line with the brass ferrule inserted,
the plastic compression nut in place and the black and white
compression washers ready to be slid onto the line. |
|
|
Fig
21. Insert the brine line through the pre-cut holes
in the brine tank and the brine well. Pull enough through
to work with and slip the plastic hex nut, black compression
washer and white compression washer in place as described
above. |
Fig
22. Slide the brine line all the way into the brine
assembly then thread and tighten the compression nut hand-tight.
Use a wrench to get a positive seal but do not break the nut. |
Your
brine tank is now connected and set up. Position the brine tank
in its permanent location and add water to it until the water
level is 1 or 2 inches above the top of the brine grid. NOTE:
This will not be the permanent water level in your brine tank.
The control valve will determine the proper amount of water to
put into the brine tank. We are adding water to the tank at this
time for initial leak testing purposes only.
Section
7. Control Valve Setup. The
Fleck 5600 Econominder is a metered or "on demand" control
valve which means it measures the amount of water that runs through
your plumbing system and schedules and performs media bed regeneration
based on your usage. In order to do this, you must "tell"
the control valve how many people are using your water and how
much hardness or compensated hardess is in your water. You can
calculate your compensated
hardness for water containing iron here. The Fleck 5600 comes
with an excellet Owner's
Manual and there is a Service Manual available for you to
download in our Documentation area which explains the operation
of the 5600 controller in great detail if you have more questions
than are answered here pertaining to control valve settings.
First
set the time of day on your controller by pressing in and holding
the red button on the front of the 5600 and turning the outer
wheel until the correct time of day shows up in the window on
the dial labeled "Time Of Day". Now you can set your
"People" and "Hardness" dial on the right-front
of the controll valve. Pull out on the spring-loaded clear plastic
dial and line the number of people using water in your home or
place of business up with the grains of hardness per gallon in
your water. Re-insert the meter cable on the back of the 5600
into the top of the meter dome (Fig 23). Plug
in the electrical cord.
 |
Fig
23. The meter cable is not a wire. It rotates the
transmission in the control head to track your water usage. |
Section
8.
Pressurize And Backwash. If
you used the included bypass valve with your new softener system,
set it in bypass mode and slowly turn on the main water valve
to your home until all pipes are pressurized. Now open the bypass
valve SLOWLY. You do not want to be surprised by leaks. Let the
media tank fill completely and pressurize, then open the bypass
valve the rest of the way. Open a cold water faucet which is nearest
to the softener and let the air and dirty water (from soldering
and plumbing) escape. When the water runs clear, shut the faucet
off.
Advance
your control valve's dial to "REGEN.". Your 5600 will
now begin its initial regeneration cycle. You may not notice anything
happen for the first few minutes, but eventually water will start
to flow through the controller and drain line. The backwash cycle
may take up to 180 minutes. During this time check closely for
any leaks in your water pipes, brine and drain line connections.
While your softener is backwashing, it is automatically internally
bypassed so that this rinse water will not make it into your plumbing.
You
are finished! Once the initial regeneration is complete, you may
add salt or potassium chloride to the brine tank. The service
manual recommends that you keep the salt or potassium level above
the water level in the brine tank, but you may add as much chloride
as you want. If you have a tank-style water heater, it will still
contain untreated hard water, but your cold water lines will begin
dispensing softened water right away.
If
you do not know how much hardness is in your water, you should
test it before setting the 5600 Econominder. You can find hardness
and iron water test kits at local stores or pool supply shops.
This
page and its contents copyright 2002 - 2007 Water Value Company.
All rights reserved.
|